The Second Day of Enchantment!

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So, my husband has TOTALLY outdone himself this time!  I have no idea how much time, thought and effort by a lot of people has gone in to making this such a special lifetime memory!  We met 50 years ago tomorrow at my school Christmas formal on a blind date on Dec 12th!  It’s been a GREAT 50 years!  I so made the right choice 50 years ago when I fell head over heels for this man!  We were even “crowned” King and Queen of the Christmas formal that first night! And I was already so in love that I kept his neck scarf so I could douse it in English Leather (a men’s cologne that he wore back then) and sleep with it around my neck!  

Today was all about more clues and presents as there has been a stroll down “memory lane” and the Christmas Markets on the Champs Élysées!  My first envelope was found in a shop window where I also received a “crown” (representing the first night we met and we were crowned King and Queen of my Christmas Formal)!
The note says,”A voyage into your past.”
As we continued our stroll….

Different, but pretty… Red flocked live trees!

I loved these ladies having coffee with their dogs — it’s just so “Parisian!”  There’s even a black Scottie sitting in the third chair!
Hmmmm…..And….

A lovely Christmas ornament with our anniversary date on it.
Ah ha!  The name of someone I love…. The small wooden train spells out  “GABRIELA”!  Another treasure added to my growing collection!
This jolly elf is selling oranges!

A friendly snowman crossed our path!
The mastermind!  This is the car that we drove to the church with — a very basic VW that belonged to his fraternity brother!  Another gift to add to my surprise collection!  Inside the door was a very small note..

A silly face from a sidewalk purveyor of meats and cheeses!

And the next clue…. A lovely cookie with the address of our first home in Northbrook, Il.

Tonight is a dinner some place special…. I’m sure I will have more to divulge as more is revealed to me! Back with you after dinner!

PARIS!

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Ok, we have a lot of catching up to do!  I thought I was spending the week in NYC with this amazing itinerary that Arlene Feen had put together for us!  BUT, last night, at the magnificent Rainbow Room (just reopened in August) with its revolving dance floor and 12 piece orchestra , a waiter delivered an envelope to the table which announced that I was leaving the next day for Paris!  Wow! What a surprise  my husband has been working on!

So, after a feverish shopping trip to FAO Schwartz before we left New York, we made our way to JFK and the flight to Paris!  We are staying at the newly opened (August 2014) Peninsula Hotel!  We have truly been treated like royalty!  EVERYONE came out to welcome us –including the General Manager!  No detail has been left undone! Our suite is quite beautiful and  filled with champagne, white roses, and cookies! What more could you ask for!  The suite is ultra modern, but very easy to live in!  Everything is controlled by iPads or electronic touch plates!  But unlike some places that have tried to institute technology, this room really works!  You don’t need a PHD in electronics to survive!  

My thoughtful husband had planned an early morning massage before we launched on a walking tour of Mont Martre with our delightful,guide, Katia Strepacki!  She is a “guide extraordinaire” with a wealth of information at her fingertips!  Mont Martre is still an artist colony of sorts, but it’s also become a very exclusive, upscale place to live!  While walking in the street, we encountered a talented street artist who stopped us so she could do a 10 minute chalk sketch of me!  (I only wish I looked that good!). She was very nice.  

As we ventured further along the street, I was set upon by a “gypsy?” ( a guy dressed as a woman fortune Teller) who proceeded to “read my palm” with extraordinary accuracy!  He knew the name of our first dog, how many children I had, my granddaughter and where we had recently Traveled!  (Quite well informed). At the end of my palm reading, he gave me a necklace with a small key on it.  The key to the city of Paris.
After visiting the Basilica, we ventured into a famous square in Mont Martre where a young man appeared calling my name!  (He looked remarkably like the woman gypsy who had given me the key.). He handed me a wrapped package.  Behold, it contained a locked wooden box that my key magically unlocked. You can read the message inside the box in the photos below.  After that, surprises were still awaiting me!  We entered the famous meeting place in Mont Martre called the Maison Catherine!  It is one of the original bistros.  AND, we learned the origin of the word “Bistro”!  It is a Russian word that means “quick”.  It came about when Prussian soldiers (who were not allowed to have alcohol) rushed to the outskirts of the city (Mont Martre ) to get a drink. They would rush into a “saloon” and say, “Bistro! bistro,” asking for a quick drink!  Thus came about the name for the small cafes that served liquor in Paris!
But I digress!  One more surprise awaited me!  In the Maison Catherine, (a famous meeting place for the artists of Mont Martre ), what should magically appear but about 30 beautiful red roses!  My husband has outdone himself in the romance department!  Take note, gentlemen!
We topped the evening off with dinner in the Roof Top Terrace at the Peninsula Hotel– a restaurant with a magnificent view of the city and a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower!  More adventures tomorrow, so check back!
Katia and Bill on our walking tour!
The oldest church in Paris and the Basilica Sacre Coure in Mont Martre.
The street portrait artist!
She even drew the “Key” the gypsy would later give me around my neck!
The beautiful Basilica!
The locked box with the scroll!

It says, “There  are many words unspoken.  A secret Paris holds.  Keep your heart open. As your journey in Paris unfolds….. “

The locked box!
A famous sculpture. 
My roses!
Gingerbread house in the Peninsula!
The “twinkling Eifel Tower”!
Who knows what tomorrow may bring!?  Today was like a fairy tale!

New York, New York! A Most Wonderful Place for the Holidays!

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Well, our holiday seasonal trip has started off SPECTACULARLY!  We arrived last evening after attending the most beautiful wedding the night before in Miami.  The son of very good friends of ours was married to a lovely young woman at the Westin Hotel in Miami.  It was a most memorable evening (black tie affair) with an especially nice group of people!

We arrived in New York Sunday without a hitch and proceeded to go to the Radio City Music Hall Christmas Spectacular!  Bill had obtained amazing seats for us — second row center stage!  The show is just wonderful!  They make just enough changes each year to keep it “new and fresh” but they retain the sets that are wonderfully traditional and give you that warm “Christmas ” glow!  
After the show, we went for a late dinner to Swing 46 — A live jazz supper club!  It was a lot of fun and there were two couples who got on the dance floor that were amazing. One couple has been on Broadway and the other couple certainly had very professional ballroom dance moves!  Fun!
This VERY cold Monday morning, we met our guide and driver for the day, and set off on a “scavenger hunt!”  We were given “clues” to solve to proceed to our next destination.  At each stop, we were given a  gift with the next clue!  Good thing our guide knew all the answers since Bill and I had a few difficulties recalling “travel” clues that we should have known, but couldn’t dredge up at the moment!  I’m posting a photo of all the lovely gifts that we collected along the way on our “hunt”!  It started with a wine bottle with a note inside.  I thought it was the bottle we threw off the Queen Mary last March offering a reward to  anyone  who finds the bottle.  It was wrapped to look like it came from Shanghai and I initially fell for it hook, line and sinker! 
New York is such an historic city with so many interesting things to learn!  We even got to eat lunch at the Oyster Bar in the renovated Grand Central Station.  Wow!  What a difference!  When Bill and I last visited  the station in the 60’s, it was grimy with black ceilings and not at all glamorous. They have cleaned the ceiling (black from 100 years of tobacco smoke) to its original glory!  The chandeliers that hung in the station were black and thought to be wrought iron and we’re going to be discarded.  BUT, they discovered they were NOT iron but gorgeous brass.  They have opened small kiosk stores in Grand Central Station that have wonderful items for sale in the upper entrance lobby.  We even took a walk in Central Park past the newly opened Icon, Tavern on the Green, which closed its doors during the financial crisis a few years ago!  Oh, and walking by the Calvin Klein Store, who should we see, but Robert Redford out doing a little shopping!  Always a surprise around any corner in this great city!  
“The Royals”, William and Kate, are visiting for three days and arrived last night.  They are staying just down the street from us at The Carlyle Hotel.  AND, as we were coming back to our hotel this evening, along come several black SUV’s, an ambulance and a lot of police cars!  And what to our wondering eyes does appear?  Kate Middleton!  We could clearly see her because her window was rolled down as the entourage passed us on a narrow street!  Her husband was visiting Washington earlier today while Kate visited children in Harlem..
We are expecting a deluge of rain tomorrow, but I don’t think it can dampen our spirits!  We are having an absolutely wonderful vacation!  There is something “magical” about this city!  The Christmas windows are beautiful– some more exotic then others, but all are fun!  More adventures await us tomorrow, so check back again soon!  
Before the show in Radio City.
Santa’s Reindeer?
Santa makes his appearance!
Santa and  his dancing reindeer!
They are SUCH amazing dancers!
The Nutcracker!
The very famous toy soldier routine!
Those snow flake “balls” float over the audience and then return to “sink” below the stage .
All the city sky scrapers are made of paper!
 
Tree at Rockefeller Center. 
Renovated Grand Central Station!
This ceiling was black the last time we were in the station!

A live ice skater performing at Barnies window!
Another window at Barnies!
Moving wind sculptures!  This was really beautiful. There was a vent behind the sculptures  blowing air to make them spin!
Our scavenger hunt clues and gifts!  What a fun and unique way to explore the city!  Thank you, Arlene!

Reunited in London!

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We’re sitting here this morning in lovely London– all together again!  All the boys have gone for a long walk and Trey and Grant are scouting out a new American sports bar where they can watch college football later!  Bill, Mary and I have just purchased tickets to see the musical tonight, Dirty Rotten Scoundrels, which is next door to our hotel.

Grant arrived yesterday morning and spent the afternoon catching a few Z’s since he didn’t sleep well on the plane.  Then he , Mary and I went out for a very nice dinner not far away..when we came back to the Hotel, Bill and Trey had just arrived!
And so, here is the happy ending of “the rest of the story!”  After going back to the port yesterday morning, and with the help of a wonderful gentleman from Sea Song who was assisting them, they proceeded to discuss their entry situation with the Port Police.  The Port police would not stamp the entry on their passports.  The boys could prove they had been on the ship– they had their ship cards and Oceania faxed over the official passenger list.  However, they still refused to stamp the passport.  At some point, they thought they could just pay a fine and they would let them transit.  That turned out not to be the case.  They did tell them they could leave if they agreed to go on a list that would never allow them back in the country.  Both guys didn’t want to be on that kind of list.  Finally, the Port police wrote them a letter that they said would work with the airport police.  It was a letter saying that they had, in fact, disembarked from the ship, on the 22nd.  WRONG!  When they went back to the airport, the  passport control authorities still said no, the letter didn’t work.  The gentleman from Sea Song who was assisting the guys, had a lengthy discussion with the man in charge.  Both of the two police forces were in “opposite corners!”  It looked like the guys were caught in a never ending circle with both police sides telling the other side “no!”  Finally, the Sea Song rep told the airport police that the guys had Mary’s luggage and that they had all her medications with them. He told the authorities that she was 87 and needed her medication or she’d die. With that note, the guy said “Ok, go to passport control 14 and have him call me”. So off they go.  When they get to number 14, the policeman takes Trey’s passport and begins to very slowly thumb through the pages from front to back.  He finally looks at Trey and says: “There’s no entry stamp.”  Trey says: “Yes, I know.  That’s why you are to call this number “. The policeman  calls but looks very unhappy.  He hangs up,the phone and starts thumbing through the passport again- slowly, page by page.  Trey said even the guy from Sea Song who was watching looked apprehensive because if this didn’t work I don’t think anyone knew what the next step would be!  FINALLY, the guy stamped the exit Page and gave Trey back his passport.  He followed suit with Bill.  Two GIANT sighs of relief!  They proceeded to the waiting area and got on the plane!  YEA!!!!!!!  So many thank you’s  to the consummate professionals at Sea Song and Arlene Feen at Pro Travel who had a sleepless night getting the whole situation sorted!
We are now thoroughly enjoying a relaxing day in London.  Tomorrow is the Miami Dolphin/Oakland Raider football game at Wembly Stadium!  It will be packed!  A sold out venue! Home our Dolphins “right their ship” tomorrow.  We will be cheering them on!
Views from our suite at the Savoy. 
Duffy taking a “cat nap!”

Remember the Movie with Tom Hanks, Lost in America? Bill and Trey Have A Turkish version of this event !

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First, let me catch you up on our last two days in Istanbul!  I didn’t blog on the 24th because we were gone all day and I had to pack!  But, we had a lovely day.  Our first stop was the largest Turkey naval museum where we saw many beautiful boats that carried the  Sultans on the Bosphorus.  We even saw the actual chain which was stretched across the narrow “Golden Horn” on the Bosphorus, to keep the invading Ottomans from sailing into the inlet of the Roman controlled Constantiople in 1453.  The Ottomans defeated the Romans because they invented cannon balls and were knocking holes in the defensive walls around the city.  However, the Romans were quickly repairing the walls so the Ottomans needed to sail down the Golden Horn with their ships.  But the Romans had stretched a chain across this narrow inlet.  Overnight, the Ottomans took their ships up on land and carried them over to the other side of the chain and continued their successful invasion and the eventual fall of Constantinople.

After the museum, we had a visit to the amazing Grand Bazaar.   It is the oldest and largest bazaar in Turkey with over 4000 shops. Found a few things I was looking for, but mostly just enjoyed the sights and sounds of this exotic ancient shopping center.  We met a famous gentleman, called “the Calligrapher” who does the most amazing art and calligraphy on, of all things, dried dieffenbachia leaves.  Many celebrities have samples of his art- including the Clinton’s, the Bush’s and even Bill Gates!  His shop is the size of a large walk in closet!
Next stop was the amazing Suleymaniye Mosque, built by Sultan Suleiman I (Suleiman the Magnifiecent).  It is an architectural wonder.
After the Mosque, we made our way to the famous Topkapi Palace.  It is now a museum that houses a fabulous treasure trove of precious gifts from foreign heads of state to the Sultans over the years.  There  is also a gallery of the most amazing jewels.  The palace itself was built between 1464-1478 and was the residence of the Sultan, his court and his harem.  Over 4000 people lived in the Palace at one time.  We were able to see the solid gold cradle, two diamond encrusted gold candlesticks that are each about five feet tall and,  the piece de resistance, the 7th largest diamond in the world, the “Spoonmaker’s Diamond.”
On our last morning before we headed to the airport , we walked around the corner from our hotel,to visit the St.  Sophia.  This was a Byzantine church that was originally built  in the 6th century.  It was built by Constantine and it was said that under the foundation of the church there are religious relics of part of the crucifixion cross of Jesus and the Crown of Thorns.  When the church was destroyed, first by an earthquake and another time by fire, it was rebuilt in exactly the same spot because of the Holy ground beneath it.  It was a Christian church for over a thousand years.  After the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire, the church was converted to a Mosque and remained a Mosque for the next 500 years.  In the 1930’s, the Sultan of Turkey dedicated the site as a Museum saying it was such an historic place it should not belong to any one  religion.  They began to remove the plaster that had been put over the Christian images when it became a Mosque, but they realized they were destroying much of what was under the plaster so they stopped.  The Museum is still under renovation.
But now begins the REAL story of the day!  The four of us arrived at the airport with our 10 pieces of luggage and proceeded straight to passport control and security.  Duffy and Trey were in one passport line, I was in another and Bill in a third.  I whizzed through and was waiting on the other side of security …and I waited….and waited…  No one else came through.  I finally saw Duffy wandering around on the other side of security and waved her through the security line. When I asked her where Trey was, she said they took him away!  Heart stopping!  I kept waiting for Bill to show up but he never came through either. Now I’m thinking that Bill saw what happened to Trey and stayed on the other side to try to help.  I am running everywhere trying to find someone who could speak English that would help me find out what happened.  No one admitted to English except the man at the Information desk. He paged Trey and Bill but that was all.  I finally was sent to a policewoman who let me go back through security to talk to the passport officers.  I went back to the line Trey had been in but that officer was gone and the guy next to him had no idea what I was saying or talking about.  Finally, I spotted Bill on the other side so now we’re yelling across the airport.  Bill tells me they won’t let he or Trey through because their passports didn’t have an entry stamp!  The police  kept saying they had to go back to the Port and get their entry stamp!  Thus began the nightmare!  Bill yells to me that Trey is on the other side of security with an escort to give us Duffy’s passport and boarding pass, so I go running back to find Trey.  There are a LOT of people on the other side  and it took quite a while to locate Trey. But, I retrieved Duffy’s passport and boarding card and kissed him goodbye as he was escorted back!  
The MAGNIFICENT Arlene Feen with Pro Travel and Karen from Sea Song Tours are now working on the problem.  At first, Oceania was going to fax a letter saying the guys were indeed passengers that had been on the ship and disembarked.  That was going to be enough to get their entry stamp.  Turns out that couldn’t be accomplished right away.  The police were still insisting they had to go back to the port, but the ship had sailed 3 days earlier!  The boys missed our flight and spent the night at the airport hotel where, I’m told, every time a plane took off, their room shook!  The plan was a wonderful person from Sea Song was to take the boys back to the port this morning  for their stamp.  It seems they thought the police could look at video of the disembarking passengers and that after they would see Bill and Trey, they would stamp their entry.  Turns out the video was erased!  After that didn’t didn’t work, I’m not sure what took place except for a LOT of paperwork and negotiations!  Also, Bill was the only one who had his bag!  They just pulled the last four bags we had checked off the plane!  Duffy was ok because she had two of her suitcases and I had her medications.  Poor Trey had no suitcases and I had a suitcase with all the summer things and  dressy things from the ship, but no makeup, hair brush, warm clothes or any of my electronics to charge my phone or iPad!  But Duffy and I arrived safely and are lodged in a magnificent suite at the Savoy!  Grant arrived this morning and is napping and Arlene has purchased two new air tickets to get Bill and Trey out of Istanbul  and onto London.  As I type this they should be (I hope!) on board the plane!  This really had the feel of the Tom Hanks movie “Lost in America”.  It was about a man who spoke no English and came to New York and couldn’t get out of the airport because of a clerical paperwork error.  He ended up living  at the airport for a couple of months while he waited for the government to fix his paperwork issue!  I’m sure I will learn more when the guys get here, but oh my goodness…. A family story for the ages!  My new heroines are Arlene Feen and Karen, the owner of Sea Song tours who stayed up all night trying to get this issue resolved!  We are so grateful to these two VERY accomplished professionals.
PS. I almost forgot!  After Duffy and I finally fell into bed around midnight last night, the fire alarm went off TWICE!  All I could was laugh!  A perfect ending to the craziest of days. Fortunately, the alarms were false and we did NOT have to evacuate!
In the Naval Museum.
Some of the Sultans’ boats.  
Inside the Suleymaniye Mosque.
Five hundred year old Armenian Bible we saw in the Calligrapher’s shop!
The tree was planted when the Mosque was  built.
Shopping in the Grand Bazaar.
Entrance to Topkapi Palace.
Entrance to the Palace..
Now THIS is a big sycamore tree!
They say this May be the oldest door in the world..
Blue Mosque is behind me.
Famous shopping street!
We ducked into this old Hotel where Agatha Christie stayed for four months when she wrote Murder On The Orient Express.  It is quite close to the Orient Express Train Station which is currently being renovated.
View from our suite at the Savoy which the boys will soon be able to see!
More tomorrow when I get further “juicy details”!

A VERY WINDY and overcast day in Istanbul – tour of Museum of Chora

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The weather today was a bit off and on  — threat of rain and then sun!  Sort of like Florida! :). Temperatures remained mild, but it is supposed to be 10 degrees cooler tomorrow, but lots of sun.

We had a lazy morning and didn’t meet our expert guide, Evren Bozan, guide until 1:00 pm.  We decided to leave Mary behind today.  She wanted to wash her hair and she a bit of a bad tummy earlier.  She is absolutely fine now, so I suspect her system was not used to something she ate.  She seems 100% now.  
We actually met Karen from Sea Song, our local tourist company.  We told her how much we are enjoying everything she has put together for us!  Her guide choices have been the best!  All of our guides have been outstanding!  Each one is so knowledgeable and explains history to us so well!  Thank you to ALL our excellent guides!
Bill, Trey and I then had a quick round trip journey from Europe to Asia and back!  We drove over the very long bridge from the European side to,the Asian side where we could view the wider streets, newer residences and much lusher vegetation.  We did take a photo of a Sultans Palce  (the Giragan Palace)  which is now part of the Kapinski Hotel chain.  This was interesting to us, because in 1910, there was a fire at the Palace.  Bill’s grandfather was stationed here at the time and his ship and men helped fight the fire at the Sultan’s Palace. The Sultan awarded Captain Isaac Dortch (Mary’s father) a medal for helping put out the fire!  It is the building with the green roof on the left side in the photo below. 

After this, we made our way to the Museum of Chora.  The original church existed from the 4th or 6th century (there is a disagreement among historians which century is correct).  However, inside this small church, there are amazing mosaics that were done in the 1300’s. The mosaics are in marvelous shape and detail the story of the Virgin Mary’s parents and the story of her life.  
Mary’s father was named Joachim and her mother was Ann.  Joachim was not allowed in the Temple because he had no child with his wife, Ann.  He went into the  mountains and prayed to God for a child.  His wife then becomes pregnant with the Virgin Mary.  Joachim promised that he would leave his child in the temple if he had one.  Thus, when Mary was very young, he presented her to the high priest, Zachariah, at the Temple.  Mary was a good and faithful servant, as well as a beautiful young woman.  Zachariah was in charge of deciding who her husband would be.  He put out a call for the bachelors and many applied to be Mary’s husband.  There were so many that he collected the staffs of the men, placed them on an alter and prayed to God to give him a sign of who he should chose to be Mary’s husband.  The next day, one of the staffs had green leaves growing from it – a sign from God.  Zachariah held up the staff and asked who owned that staff, and of course it was Joseph.  

Mary’s family tree surrounds her on the mosaic dome of this ceiling in the church.
Joachim praying for a child in the bushes. 
Celebrating with his wife, Ann, who is pregnant with Mary.
Ann giving birth to the Virgin Mary.
Mary is born..
Ann and Joachim celebrating the birth of their child.
Presenting the very young Mary to Zachariah at the Temple.
Joseph claiming his staff that was the miracle of leaves springing from it as a sign God has chosen him to be Mary’s husband.
Joseph leaves his wife to go conduct business. He is gone 6 months.  When he returns, Mary is pregnant with the Son of God.  He is angry and confused at first, but an Angel comes to Joseph and says yes, truly Mary will have a child who is the son of God.
Mary and Joseph must travel to Bethlehem for the census.
The birth of Jesus.
The three Magi who followed the star to the birthplace of the Son of God.
There are many mosaics of the miracles performed by Christ.  
This church fell under Muslim control for a short while and because no images are allowed in a Mosque, they covered the Mosaics with wood or tapestries.  The Church was later restored by Theodore Metochites who accumulated great wealth as the Treasurer of the City during the Byzantine period.  When he eventually ran out of money for the Mosaics, he used plaster, that when wet, would have the different colors infused into it so that the paint was deeply absorbed by the plaster which has allowed it be so well preserved.
This is one of the well preserved frescoes showing Christ after his resurrection pulling Adam and Eve from hell.

Bill and Trey in Cappadocia

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Well, I’m doing the written portion of this blog based on what Bill and Trey have told me.  Cappadocia , as you can see in the photos, is a FASCINATING and beautiful place filled with intriguing caves and rock formations.  The region was sculpted millions  of years ago.  There were three volcanoes in the area which erupted over time.  This resulted in the area being developed in layers.  There would be a volcanic layer of dark basalt from the lava, and then a layer of volcanic ash would mix with rain and form a layer of light colored sediment.  The sediment layers were more easily eroded in the multiple “layers” resulting in the fabulous creation of “fairy Chimneys” and amazing rock sculptures with a thin layer of sediment rock holding up a large basalt rock!  The sediment layers were easy to excavate and there were also naturally occurring lava tubes that formed the basis for the underground cities and the homes and churches built into the rocks.  It was an area that was mostly hidden from view and where early Christians built their homes to be safe from invaders that swept across the area. Early Christians lived here from the 6th to the 9th century.  There are still 356 churches carved into the sides of the mountains.  Bill and Trey visited Kaymakli Underground City where 5 levels extend below ground and include living quarters, kitchens, wine presses, storage rooms, stables and ventilation shafts.  They even had large boulders  that they could roll in front of an opening.  They could roll the stone out of the way from the inside, but someone from the outside couldn’t do it.  They also had holes in the ceilings so if invaders came in, they could rain arrows down on intruders.  They used ladders to go from one level to another and they could simply pull the ladder up as an additional measure of defense.  I am going to post lots of amazing photos of this region…truly one of the wonders of the world!

Inside this hotel room .
The Hotel.

This is their amazing and wonderful guide explaining to Trey about this underground oven.  They LOVED their guide.  He does guiding all over the region, but this area is his home.  The guide has EXCELLENT English skills and is Ergun Akan, a licensed Peofessional Tourist guide.  Trey and Bill would highly recommend this gentleman if you are ever in the area. Ergunakkan@yahoo.com.
An idea of the vastness and complexity of the area.  

This is a good example of the two different “layers” of sediment and basalt.
These last two photos are for you Grant.
Inside a Gentleman’s home who lives there today..
Check out Trey’s artistic endeavors on the pottery wheel!
The finished product!  Way to go Trey!

Mary and I On Our Own–lovely sea ride on the Bosphorus

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Well, today Mary and I bid a sad farewell to our home for the last two weeks as we disembarked from Riveria.  I must say, it was a delightful two weeks aboard.  The food and staff were excellent!  It is a smooth running operation with precious little to find fault.  Mary and I had breakfast in our suite, made once last “sweep” to be sure nothing was forgotten, and the we left to meet our new guide, Evran.  
He took us straight to a beautiful yacht for a 1 1/2 hour cruise on the Bosphorus.  This was the perfect weather day to do this cruise with sunny skies and mild temperatures! 
After our leisurely sail, we did a short walk around one of the old neighborhoods with its winding streets.  Amazingly, types of stores are all grouped together on one street!  This is great for the consumers!  You can visit twenty lamp stores all in a row and price shop for th bet deal.  The same goes for electronics, etc.  I think the “hardware” street might be the longest, though! 
Traffic here, like any large city is just horrendous!  Driving a car or motorcycle is like solving one of those “sliding puzzles” where you have to shift tiles around to arrange them in the correct order!
Good thing we have an excellent driver.  It doesn’t phase him a bit that there is only 5″ between his Mercedes and the dinged up yellow taxi trying to zip around us! 
We also visited an ancient Medieval Tower that was used as a watch tower in the Middle Ages. You can take an elevator to the 7th floor but to see the 360* view! you have to climb an additional two floors!  Mary was my hero of the day!  Stood in a long line for 45 minutes to get into the tower and then Climbed the last two floors to the top!  After all that work, lunch was well earned and we visited a local Kebob restaurant for some real Turkish food!  I had a version of Turkish flatbread and Mary had chicken Kebobs.  For dessert, we tried something that I can only describe as very thin baked Crepes surrounding melted cheese with pistachios sprinkled on top.  Yummy, but oh my gosh, the amount of butter and cheese hardens arteries just looking at it!
We are now officially checked into the Four Seasons Hotel for the next three days.  Mary is napping and I am, of course, blogging!  We haven’t heard from the guys, but I know their weather was good.  I’m sure the photos will be great.  However, we won’t see them until around 10:30 pm tonight. Mary and I have dinner resevations in the hotel at 7:30 pm.  And then there will be the challenge of trying to remember where I put what, in which of the three suitcases!!!  :)))
Scenic cruise on the Bosphorus.  We sailed down the European side of the river and then returned down the Asian side.  The Bosphorus separates the European Continent from the Asian continent.
Sultan Palace. 

The bridge behind us joins the European Continent with the Asian continent. It was built in 1973 and was the 4th longest bridge in the world.
Original buildings that have been restored.  These are several hundred years old.

Beginning of the ancient fortress of the walled city at the Mouth of the Bosphorus .
About a year ago there were protests against the Turkish President for being “too much like a dictator”.  Several of the streets have stairs going up that have been painted as part of the protest for more freedom.

The tulip is the flower symbol of the city.  The first Tulip bulb was presented to Constantinople from Holland.
Fresh produce everywhere.
Turkish flatbread!  Chopped vegetables, spices and meats.
The Medieval Tower  that we climbed up.
The Crepe fried cheese dessert!
Down the Tower stairs!
Entrance to the Tower.
Views from the top of the Tower..
Ok.  Off to dinner!  Happy Birthday to Mimi Fuller Ritchie today!  

Final stop– Istanbul. Then London!

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Today was our first cloudy day.  Still, it did not dampen our spirits ( in spite of a couple of raindrops!). There was no rain when we walked around the area next to the Four seasons Hotel where we will be tomorrow night.  The Four Seasons we are staying in used to be the local prison.  Can’t tell now! It’s lovely inside!  We took all luggage off the ship today and dropped it at the Hotel.  Bill and Trey took a late afternoon flight out to Cappadocia.  I will post his photos tomorrow or the next day.  

We spent the afternoon on a walking tour which included a fairly long wait to enter the famous Blue Mosque.  There are hordes of people!  This is a VERY populated city which has seen its ranks swell a LOT with  recent Syrian refugees.  It sounds like some of the Turkish people are not too happy with the influx of refugees.  The Syrians seem to be causing a small crime wave.  They have no jobs and no place to stay….
The famous Blue mosque (actual name is Sultan Ahmed Mosque) was built in 1609-1616.  It is nicknamed the “blue Mosque” because of the blue tiles made of Quartz that adorn the interior.  You must remove your shoes before entering.  The area where you pray must be clean- thus no shoes can walk on the carpet. Muslim men must wash their feet before entering to pray.   There are spigots along the outside wall where men sit to wash their feet.  Women must pray from the upper level.  They are not allowed on the main floor with the men,  there are no statues or figures of people displayed inside the Mosque.  They have beautifully crafted Arabic caligraphy sayings adorning the walls. 
Outside of the Mosque, we saw two ancient Obelisks in the street that used to be where Chariot races were held.  One of the Obelisks was brought from Egypt.  The engravings on the bottom of the Obelisk show the history of erecting the Obelisk, and it shows people cheering for their Chariot racer guy!  The obelisk was originally from The Temple of Karnak in Luxor Egypt and was brought to Constantinople in 392 AD.  
Because the Ottomans were originally nomads, they did not have a model for building a mosque.  So, they copied the Byzantine Church with its distinctive dome.  That is why Mosques have a dome…
Mary and I waited while Bill and Trey visited the underground cisterns.  (48 steps down). These cisterns were the subject of the Dan Brown novel , Inferno…
After our walking tour, it was time to say goodbye to the guys as they headed to the airport and Cappadocia.  Mary and I made our way through VERY heavy traffic to the theater where we were to see the Whirling Dirvishes. This is an ancient practice of Sema– a way to honor God.  They twirl as they subject their ego and rise to a higher level of “perfection” –a nirvana… There is chanting and prayers.  It is a solemn and spiritual show.  There is total silence by the viewing audience from beginning to end.
Duffy and I made our way back to the  ship after the show to have our farewell dinner.. We have to be out of our room by 8:30 am tomorrow before we meet our guide for another day of touring..
I was here 50 years ago with my parents.  We did visit the Blue Mosque, but it was not nearly as crowded back then!  There are just thousands of people visiting and you are packed inside to view the Mosque.  Everywhere there is an amazing crush of humanity….still, an exotically beautiful city with its hundreds of minarets decorating the sky…
Ceiling of the Blue Mosque.
Inside the Blue Mosque.
Windows in the Mosque.
The ancient Obelisk that was along the roadway of the ancient Chariot Races.
Base of the obelisk..
Two “cuties!”

Beginning of the Whirling Dervishes ceremony…
Good night all!  AND GO DOLPHINS!!!!!!!

Kusadasi, Turkey — Ephesus, the ancient city

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We began our day docking in Kusadasi, Turkey.  But the truly memorable moments of today’s adventures were the visits to the home of the Virgin Mary and the HUGE ancient Roman City (250,000 people) of Ephesus.  
I am sorry to say that I neglected to write down the name of our lovely guide!  She has EXCELLENT english skills and is a great educator!  She told us so many things in such an understandable way.  She actually has a daughter who is currently living in Deerfield Beach, Florida.  It seems she has met a nice young man who lives in Coral Gables!  
John the desciple, brought Mary to Ephesus after the resurrection of Jesus.  They built a home for her atop a hill above Ephesus to keep her away from the pagans who lived below in the city.  Mary Fuller made the trek to the Virgin Mary’s home, but elected to stay in our mini bus while we walked the archeological site of Ephesus. It was a wise decision.  There were many stairs and a lot of walking over very uneven terrain.. Many of the marble stones in the streets are original..
 The crown jewel of the city is the Library of Ephesus.  It was the third largest library of its time.. In order to preserve the papyrus scrolls in the library, the roof was wooden to help control humidity.  Unfortunately, there was a fire and everything was destroyed except for one book that had been removed the day of the fire– The Iliad!  
We also were able to visit a large area of excavated homes.  There was one section that was a 10,000 square foot house that belonged to a Roman tax collector!  It was absolutely amazing!  It was elaborately  decorated with so many rooms!  
I also learned the origin of the snake symbolism used in medicine.  We saw a hospital (sorry I missed that photo ) that is the beginning of this symbolism.. It seems a man showed up at the hospital and was sent away as too ill for the Doctors to help.  On the way home, the man decided he wanted to die.  He saw a snake “milking” a goat and decided to drink the venom laced goat’s milk.  Instead of dying, the small amount of venom in the milk had curative powers for the man and he lived!  Thus, the symbol of a snake as a healing power in medicine began!
We finished the day with (surprise!) a little shopping.  Trey is the new owner of a beautiful Handmade Turkish rug and I found a couple of magnificent leather jackets that are so soft they feel like silk!
We are busy packing tonight because Bill and Trey fly to Cappadocia tomorrow while Mary and I spend one more night on the ship.  We will meet the boys the next day at the hotel in Istanbul. I will keep you apprised of our “girl’s night out”!  I know we get to see a whirling dervishes show! 
Arrival..
Outside the Virgin Mary’s home..
The Virgin Mary’s house is behind us.
We were not the only people visiting today!
The Library.
Trey in front of Winged Victory!
The road from the Harbor to the city entrance that Cleopatra and Mark Antony rode bringing scrolls to the Library of Ephesus from the Library in Alexandria….

A hidden passageway from the library to the brothel!  Gives new meaning to “Honey, I’ll be at the library”!

These are part of the 44 public toilets for men.  There was actually a violinist who played outside the entrance.   And, since these marble seats were mighty cold in winter, they sent their slaves up to sit and “warm” the seat!  Ephesus was a large trading center and there were many slaves!
This is a small section of the city that we actually visited today.  It gives you some idea of how big this archeological site is.  There is a GREAT deal more to be uncovered, but they are waiting until funds are raised to do further excavating..
These are some of the rooms in the 10,000 square foot tax collectors elaborate home.  The wall paintings are well preserved..
On the wall of a master bedroom!
Amazingly preserved mosaic floor in the wealthy Roman’s house.
Remains of the 24000 seat theater.  They had a rock concert here a few years ago and the sound caused a collapse of some of the structures.  They now only allow classical musical concerts occasionally ..
Inside the library.
On the main road to the city entrance.
Excavation of the tax collector’s home.
Truly a remarkable sight!
Ok.. I’m signing off tonight.  Just as I was getting ready to post the blog, I hit the wrong key and erased EVERYTHING I had just done!  You should have heard me groaning all the way back to Boca.  (I’m sure our next door neighbors on the ship must have heard me! ). SO, I have just redone everything.  I may have left out a few more pictures or some kernel of information I have learned, but I’m too tired and it’s too late to add any more tonight !  Maybe tomorrow…. Thanks for reading! 

Mykonos – a Greek Island Jewel

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I was actually on the Island of Mykanos around 1965 with my parents.  I remembered where we had lunch on the coast of the main harbor where we tendered in.  I rounded a corner and knew it was where we had lunch about 50 years ago!

We met our excellent guide, Christa Meixner, as we began a beautiful early morning walking tour through this lovely village.  The Island now depends almost entirely on tourism to survive.  There is no agriculture to speak of. Fruits and  vegetables are imported from nearby islands.  
There are over 600 churches on the Island.  Year round residents number around 7000, but the population swells considerably during the summer months and is almost deserted in the bitter cold of January and February.    Mykanos is known as a party island for young visitors.  There is a particular beach, which on any given night, can have 4000 young people partying late into the night!  The islands biggest day, however, is August 15, which is the Ascencion.  They have 60,000 (!!!) people  who come for this religious celebration.  Easter is the 2nd most important holiday for the Greek Orthodox Church, but Ascencion is the first. Most of the visitors come  from Italy!  Our guide thinks 80% are Italian.  The locals don’t like it very much because there are a LOT of people who have had too much to drink driving all over the island on scooters.  The locals don’t go on the roads unless they have to..
One of the reasons there are so many churches on the island is because these small, privately built chapels, become “bone” houses for those that have died.  Custom has it that after four years of burial, the oldest lady in the family has the person dug up and she “washes” the bones.  They are then put in a large wooden box and placed in the family church.
The houses all look the same on the Island.  This is not just because the inhabitants like white and blue!  It’s because back in the 1950’s, the Minister of Culture proclaimed that one day, the island would depend solely on tourism.  Thus, a law was made that all houses must be cubical, no more than 2 stories high, painted white, windows and doors are a standard size (single door, no picture windows) and all windows must have painted shutters. You are allowed to use the natural stone in the building so it can be a combination of natural stone and smooth white washed walls.  You are allowed a choice in paint, but everyone seems to prefer the same blue!  (Occasionally you will see a “rebel” who has painted shutters and their door pale green or even red!). It has given the island a distinctly beautiful uniformity.
One interesting side story.  We went to visit the small, but exquisite Monastery of Ano Mera.  Inside are beautiful icons and magnificent wood carvings.  The church owned a great deal of the land on the far side of the island.  Many years ago, the Fathers granted permission to the local fisherman to use part of their land to house their boats and nets.  Slowly, over time, a small fishing village grew up with its own Tavernas and homes and stores.  But, these fisherman never owned the land or had a permit to build there.  They did pay water and sewer fees and taxes to the government , but still they were not the owners!  Recently, the Church sold a large portion of this land (that houses the fishermans’ village) to a very wealthy American.  Even though everyone knows EVERYTHING on this small island, no one has found out how much the seaside land sold for!  But, to the surprise of the fisherman, bulldozers showed up one day to start to clear the land.  The local bulldozer drivers then refused to tear down the village, so they brought in outside people to drive the machines.  When they showed up a few weeks ago, the fisherman used guns to shoot at the machines (not the operators) but they destroyed at least one bulldozer with gunfire!  Thirty policeman came and the clearing of the structures was temporarily stopped.  However, they are due to come back next week.  It is rumored that The American who bought the land is going to build an all inclusive resort.
One other interesting note.  We met the charming “Petros” today—the mascot of the island, a Pelican. Petros was rescued by a fisherman 30 years ago and has remained with him ever since.  Usually Pelicans starve to death when they get old because they go blind and can no longer see to hunt for fish. This is because of the many years of abuse to their eyes as they dive for fish.  Petros eyes are great since he has not had to “fish for himself” .  His eyes are still good!
This is our last Greek stop. Tomorrow we arrive in Kusadasi, Turkey..
Sunrise over Mykanos!
Note window with blue shutter…
The famous “Petros!”
The windmills are a famous landmark .
Where I had lunch 50 years ago!
Winding streets….
In the Monastery…
Note caption on photos above them!
Pomegranates are just beginning to ripen!
Providing a shady arbor…

Fresh catch of the day!! Just off the early morning boat!!!
A very old grape vine….
No, he’s not real…..
A very “Greek looking” elderly gentleman!